Wednesday, September 27, 2017

Ramblings

What a crazy life we live when we turn our backs to those around us to focus on who is not there; when we miss a chance, skip a breath, open our mouths but have no words;
What a crazy people we are to say goodnight only to return to the coldness of an empty home; when we pretend we have hearts of stone and hid the shattered glass;
What crazy choices we make make when we allow warmth to turn to cold; when we avoid our passions because of fear; when we see obstacles instead of opportunities; when we use others to play out our desires; when we let shame take over our minds, our hearts and disable us; 
What a crazy life it is!

Tuesday, August 29, 2017

Sharing the Kabul Yoga Love

So after a long time of no blogging, I have a truly amazing story to share about how yoga has not only changed my life but made a huge difference in the lives of some really special little kids. This definitely constitutes the need for one blog post if not several....

I've been teaching yoga for about 3 1/2 years and had adopted the attitude that I would never charge anyone for sharing their yoga practice with me. It just didn't seem like the kind thing to do. Teaching yoga has been my escape from everything and I really do get just as many benefits out of it as everyone else. And after all those times when I was back in California living like a bum and going to donation only yoga because I honesty could not afford it, charging people pretty much seemed like a sin.

However... a couple of very special people in my life convinced me of the need to receive something back in return for what I was giving. The idea of an equal exchange and that people don't appreciate things as much if they don't invest anything. So about 2 months ago, I started introducing a donation box at the end of class and gently mentioning to my yoga peps that they could donate if they like or offer something non-monetary like a random act of kindness or a gift for our Chokador or chocolate for me (which I still haven't received... :)

After the first couple of weeks it became evident that these expats were not a cheap as I thought... We were raising some serious cash and needed to find a great cause to donate to. Myriam and I found the Enabled Children's Orphanage through our work colleague (and all around amazing guy) Jawed who has been volunteering for a couple of years. He told us that what the kids really needed was people to come over and play with them.

We visited for the first time a couple of weeks ago and it is a wonderful spacious, green and happy place. At first it was a little sad to see these kids. There are 16 boys and girls living there that all have either mental or physical or both kinds of disabilities. Their stories were heart wrenching to hear. They had all experienced so much pain and trauma and were abandoned with absolutely no one to care for them.

It all seems really sad but I actually felt good about it. To know that there is somewhere that these kids are cared for and loved so much by each other and Fooroozan, the woman who runs the orphanage.  Some how they had found the way to their new home where things are actually pretty nice.

It was all a bit overwhelming but we were really happy to become part of this family. Since then we have gone back two more times to laugh and play with the kids. They are so awesome and resilient! Just to know that some of them wouldn't hug or even allow anyone to touch them when they first arrived at the orphanage and now they are jumping all over me and giving me kisses!!!!

So back to the story of how this all spiraled into something even more amazing...on our first day there we met Sameer. One of the brightest and most articulate little kids I've met. He had a tumor on his lower back and was abandon by his family. When the tumor was removed, he lost the use of legs from the waist down. Jawed made a video of him and asked in it asked what his dream was. Sameer shyly responded that is was to meet Aryana Sayeed. For those of you not familiar with the Afghan celebrity scene, she is the most famous singer in Afghanistan and wildly loved by her fans. As luck would have it, Myriam and I happen to work in the Afghan entertainment industry and were able to pull a few strings. The rest was history. Aryana loved the idea of coming to the orphanage and we quickly organized for her to meet Sameer and the rest of the kids.

And if that wasn't enough...

Aryana has millions of followers on Facebook. The next day she posted a long video about the kids and her experience at the orphanage. Tons of people in Afghanistan saw the post and one family recognized one of the kids as their long lost son who had disappeared 2 years ago. Ramin is autistic and had apparently wandered off after getting a hair cut on to the streets of Kabul, which is a very lonely place even if you aren't an autistic child. Luckily he was rescued by Enabled Children's who diligently tried to find his family but resolved that he had been abandoned. Even though Ramin had a disability, his parents tried to get him the medical care that he needed and still wanted to take care of him. Unfortunately, he was found half starved and abused, and was unable to tell them anything about his situation.

Ramin was reunited with his family yesterday August 28th as a result of the video:


Translation: "After seeing Aryana's video in the orphanage, one of the kid's uncles recognized his lost nephew named Ramin. They lost him more than 2 years ago and now he is back with his family."

AMAZING yoga goodness! This is the kind of stuff that wakes up every chakra and makes you want to stay up all night chanting mantras and spreading your energy.

THANK YOU Kabul Yogies for donating and even if you didn't donate, sharing your energy was enough to inspire us to all keep practicing and to keep giving. I still haven't processed all of this but I know that I want to do more with yoga and more with helping kids that just need someone to play with.

Thank you Aryana for coming! You inspired the kids to believe that anything is possible, no dream is too far to reach. And I hope I have inspired you to start practicing yoga. And special thanks to Jawed for introducing us to these little gems and to those who convinced me to do more with yoga than just "focusing on my breath".

If you want to learn more about Enabled Children's, donate or volunteer with us, please visit: http://enabledchildren.org/special-needs-children/

Sunday, January 24, 2016

Inspired

This is the first time that I have felt inspired in a while. I met with a dear Afghan friend today who questioned my commitment to reality. People spending their lives making busy instead of thinking about who they really are and who they really want to be. Spending too much time thinking about the past and the present to look forward to the future. I am of course also VERY guilty of this.  The reality of being confined to this space, away from the outside world has a narrowing affect on perspective. Freedom to of movement is not something to underestimate. But to say that I am not in the "real" world is equally absurd. I am here with real people, making real decisions in an environment that is very clearly real.

I am inspired to help other people live better. No this is not my dream situation, but everyday I can make a difference in this world and that is reality. I am inspired to grow and learn every day what I can do, to unwrap my heart and mind even more. I don't want to be stuck in a heart shaped box disguised as conformity. Reality can be very inspiring to me while to others it is confining. Freedom is also a matter of perspective. As I start this new year, I want to use my inspiration to become even greater than I am or ever thought I could be. The most amazing thing is that every day is a new day to start all over again. Such a cliche but so always so true. The real world has never looked better than the Kabul sun rising and setting over the hindu kush.


Friday, July 17, 2015

SHREDDING



As I begrudgingly tread back to my cube in my soon to be old office through the heat and dust, the only thing on my mind is how quickly I can get back over to the Embassy pool for a swim. Tomorrow is the big move to our new digs, into a real building and away from the egg carton bomb shelter that I have been spending my waking hours for the last two years. Our “offices” will be torn down shortly after the move and with them, the plastic walls that have kept so many secrets and sheltered so many lives. I desperately started flinging drawers open and disposing of half-eaten cliff bars and Easter candy sent by my mom two years ago. Surprised at how quickly I am proceeding, I half-heartedly tear open the last drawer in the last cabinet, only to find dozens of green hanging folders stuffed to the brim with old dusty documents dating back to when the first hallways were hammered into place.

The last thing I want to do is spend the afternoon in front of the shredder, which is already smoking from all the attention it has been getting over the last few days. I saw my dream of the cool water wash away as I sift through document after document. Files dating back to the beginning of time, or at least our recent time in Afghanistan. Contracts, briefings, agreements between partners, old deals that that paved the way for recent accomplishments, testaments to atrocities and acts of bravery, promises that led to losses and victories - all headed for the shredder.

The first thing that caught my eye was an old 2006 memo to Condoleezza Rice explaining a proposed project to receive funding. Over the incessant grid of documents, I pause to read it, at he horror of my colleagues that are pacing the hallways impatiently. I wonder if Condoleezza was ever annoyed by the gurgling sound the shredder makes as it spits documents in reverse is there was one page to many. My mind started to wander to the time when the former Secretary of State actually walked around these very same halls. How different things were and how much they had not changed at all, it would probably seem nostalgic to her.

I find an article titled “Lusting after Riches” from 2005 about parents selling their 20-day old baby daughter to a 25-year old man in exchange for a few carpets. Religious leaders were trying to convince the parents that this was not the way and they should trade the carpets back for their daughter. For people who haven’t worked and lived in Afghanistan, stories like this might seem the norm. These are the kinds of things people Stateside like to ponder over during happy hour drinks in swanky sterile bars or in the kitchens of their seven bedroom homes. After skimming over the first few lines, the usual exhausted remark is – “I just don’t know why we are still over there…”

However, the simple facts are that these are anomalies picked up by mainstream media primarily because they tell the story that people want to hear – one of horror, sadness and lack of humanity. For those of us who have spent enough time here, we know better. We know the changes in attitudes, perceptions, beliefs and mindsets, and yes, to quote the military - “hearts and minds." This is what has changed Afghanistan forever. 

Most Afghans can even fathom an understanding of what would make parents sell their baby, just like most Americans will never understand what makes a teenager walk into an African American church and start shooting people. Yes, atrocities still happen in Afghanistan, and still happen all over the world. But if American’s progress and might was judged by the number of negative news stories fostered and repeated daily, we would realize that our glass ship was close to sinking.

What the average America, and to be honest, the rest of the world hears about is the statistics - number of Taliban attacks, percentage of national GDP increase, increase in exports/imports. And they read the first few lines of recent stories about acid thrown in the faces of three school girls. But the statistics and sensationalized stories don't tell the highlight the everyday people who make up Afghanistan today. Nadia, a 21-year-old Afghan woman, posts pictures on Facebook of herself and fellow teammates from the Afghan Women’s National Cycling team riding through the streets of Kabul practicing for international competitions. And Nasir, a 23-year-old Afghan American, whose family has enough money to send him to university in the US but decided to return to Afghanistan to get a PHD in psychology. And by Zhala, the 30-year-old female entrepreneur, who recently opened her own version of Pinkberry frozen yogurt and tweets about the new Ramadan flavors.

The changes in Afghan popular culture over the past 10-15 years are so dramatic. Half the population has grown up only knowing this Afghanistan. They could never imagine going back because the past only exists as shredded memories now as blurry as the Russian invasion. When I’m back in America, people ask me my opinion about the future of Afghanistan. Maybe I am more hopeful than most of my American colleagues, but like Nadia and Nasir and Zhala, I have only know the new Afghanistan and it is moving in one direction – forward – like the rest of the world. Another frequent question is - So what do the “Afghans” think about the future of the country. Finding one united voice amongst a country with faces, histories and opinions as diverse the whole of New York city would be an interesting feat. Americans - what do we think about slavery? Obama care? Gay marriage? 

My shredding has slowed down dramatically. Should I actually be destroying these documents? They are only copies of course but are testaments to our small piece of history in Afghanistan. To the drama, the sweat, the tears and even blood that American civilians have poured into this country. But shredding may be the best thing we can do with the past. By destroying it physically, it only exists in our memories and the possibility of it coming back seems even less tangible. Can the past actually be shredded away to reveal the future?

So as I shred the past away, I acknowledge that this is my past as well. After 3 ½ years in Afghanistan, I have made my contributions and helped to change lives. Thinking about the Condoleezza strolling down our hallways, past my incredibly messy desk, on the way to the Mission Director's office to hash out solutions to the endless list of imitate crises, I resolve to make two changes. Number 1 – make a point to keep my desk in a somewhat organized fashion by throwing out old editions of Victoria Secrets catalogs and half-eaten candy bars. And Number 2 - acknowledge and appreciate how important my contributions are and will continue to be. 

Even though my days of being able to sit down and drink tea with my Afghan bee farmer friends are long gone. And I'm no longer able to attend a weaving class and sit side-by-side Afghan women perfecting their craft or drive out to the pistachio forests and apricot farms, I am still doing my part to ensure that Afghans are able to enjoy their beautiful country and look forward to a different future which none of us can predict.  

With the last remaining documents in hands, the shredder grinds on and I smile because I am fortunate enough to be in Afghanistan at a time when it is safe for me to complain about little things like paper shredding and the bathrooms at Kabul Airport, instead of worrying about my personal security. 


Wednesday, July 15, 2015

The Colors of Badghis


Written August 05, 2013
Qala-e Naw is always a beautiful place in the Spring and it was especially colorful this year as the Badghis Fruit and Vegetable Wholesale market FINALLY opened. After three years of construction, I was so excited to see the place come to life.  No longer a concrete desert and make-shift football field,  an assortment of rich locally harvested crops burst out of the shops. The excited vendors and first-time shoppers bustled around and gave vitality to the already picturesque background of endless rolling hills and bright green valleys. And the variety of products  - Dell Monte bananas from the Philippines, mangos from Bangladesh, and kiwis from South Africa. Not to be outdone by the variety of local Afghan vegetables including spicy green peppers, cilantro, and giant watermelons.
Quite an international market for one of the smallest, most remote provincial capitals in Afghanistan!
Pretty remarkable considering that just the travel from Herat is a rough journey often taking several days.  The 6,050 square meter Market is the largest economic growth and infrastructure project native Badghisees have ever seen.  As I strolled around, I heard a young shopkeeper whisper “Look, it’s the lady who built us the market”. I’ll take some of the credit!!!
After the grand opening, I spent a lot of time meeting and working with the vendors, and of course drinking tea and enjoying the benefits of my site visits included the sampling of the products. It was really encouraging to see the pride the Afghans took in taking care of the market and how the vendor community started to ban today. The once isolated shopper keepers and farmers who had never worked together were now part of something bigger than just selling their products. They were now an associated body working together on something. I helped to facilitate their interaction of everything from finding ways to increase local agricultural production to creating base prices for products to assisting them in finding ways to represent their needs to local government.


I’m looking forward to coming back to Badghis for my ski and hiking tour, and will definitely be frequenting the market as well. 




Kenya Offers You a Cup of Tea (2007)

Oldie but goodie from October 14, 2007!!!!


What do "under-developed" countries have to offer us?

Well, after being back in Kenya for a month now, it feels like home again. I am used to all the differences and similarities to my life back in Cali. Some days are very difficult and some are very good. I think being in an under-developed country has so much to offer anyone. But the definition of third world only accurately describes Africa in 
terms of current economic conditions, poverty and health. In regards to social conditions and our relationships with each other and the world, I sometimes think that we in America are 2nd to Africa. Our lives are spent driving around (everywhere!), on our cell phones and computers, communicating with the people we know and love; our friends and family, co-workers and anyone else involved with our daily lives. We spend our days full of things we may or may not want to do (work) and are busy having fun. Most of us, even if we refuse to admit it, live in our comfort zones. We are surrounded by the people we choose to be around and it seems like the better our lives get in terms of financial situations and social status, the less we are connected with the world and the millions of people around us that we don't know. Sure we meet new friends all the time, lose friends, have relationships that work and don't work. That's life. We look for new opportunities that will make us happier and that's how we choose to spend our time.
Coming back to Kenya, my intentions where the same as the last time. To help people who haven't had the same opportunities that I have, who have not experienced the wonderful life that I have enjoyed. And again I am humbled by my experiences here and the people that have nothing are again teaching me everything. 
My job with GVN takes me to new areas in Nairobi and all over Kenya. I visit people who live in muddy, fly infested huts, who insist on my having a cup of their Chai Tea while visiting and talking with them, even though they can probably not afford the milk it takes to make it. We talk about life, my life of which they have no possible way of even understanding and about their lives and what's important to them. I visit Kibera, and worlds 2nd largest slum, where 1.5 million people live in shanty, tin houses with no sanitation or clean water. There are no formalities; only a firm handshake is required as a greeting. This is there home they have invited me into. No fronts to be put on, it smells like raw sewage, old newspapers cover the wholes in the walls to keep out the rain and mice scamper across the floors. They are what and who they are and have a sort of calming acceptance of it. There are no barriers or walls put up between people. Living in horrendous conditions brings people together and creates a kind of extended family. The emotional barriers that separate us from each other in our lives are quickly diminished here. Crisis and unfortunate 
events are what bring people together. When our power goes out in my apartment, as it quiet frequently does, we all go sit outside in the moonlight with our neighbors. Most of them don't speak English but we spend time together just the same. Sometimes it starts pouring rain at a moments notice, and we run to doorways and cars of people whom we've never met. Walking home from the store, I was struggling with a huge water jug, and a nun helped me carry my bags!
ONE STORY: 
My roomie, Kat from New Zealand is working at a school in Kibera. A boy, age six, had been hit by a bus and killed shortly after her arrival. The cost to obtain the body from the mortuary, buy a coffin and travel up country to his regional home for burial was 20,000ksh (about $300), which is a lot for anyone here with the monthly salary
(if you are lucky enough to have a job) of about $70 per month. So Kat had mentioned this incident in her blogs to friends back home. Many responded by sending her money, not being able to bare the thought of a six year old boy's body lying in a mortuary, unattended and unburied. Kat went back to school the next day and told the headmaster the good news. Her friends had provided the money for the transport and burial. However, it was soon explained to her that it had already been taken care of. Everyone in the community of Kibera had pitched in $5 - $10 and the expense was paid for. This is the way it works, the community supports themselves, with what little they have to offer. (When was the last time you help your neighbor carry in groceries?)
So what does Kenya have to offer us?
A chance to change ourselves and the way we view the world. 
A chance to appreciate our quality of life and not let trivial things bother us.
A chance to strip away our personal fears. 
We all have the essentials necessary to live productive, healthy and rewarding lives. 
Kenya offers us a smile, a hug, a kiss, and a chance to be different. Even if you feel like you have nothing to offer but a cup of tea, it is always enough.